Textiles and Costumes
This tsujigahana kosode (short-sleeved kimono) is shibori-dyed (tie-dyed) into pine bark and diamond-patterned horizontal bands. These dangawari (alternating colored) bands are further accentuated with delicate embroidery and surihaku gold leaf. The large, embroidered designs are reminiscent of the bold aesthetics of the Momoyama Period, but the clusters of small komon patterns in this kosode reflect new design trends of the early-Edo Period.
Of special interest in this kosode is the variety of delicate surihaku patterns covering the black background. The abundance of drooping cherry blossoms, hail stones and seikaiha waves completely cover the background, giving it the nickname "background-less kosode."
The contrast of gold against a dark ground in this early-Edo Period kosode naturally makes it a stunning piece, but this contrast is especially pronounced due to a higher quality gold leaf and glue than was available in the Momoyama Period.